It's one of the hardest routes on a north face that's not lacking in them: No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses, 30 pitches of mixed, ice and rock, sometimes dubious, sometimes compact. Opened in 1986 by Jan Porvaznik and Stanislav Glejdura, No Siesta has seen a few repeats that have made it a legend: first solo in 3 days by Patrice Glairon-Rappaz in 2000, first winter and free by Robert Jasper in 2003. For the past ten years, the (rare) repeaters have been setting off on this route in the fall, or winter. Christophe Dumarest knows the north face of the Jorasses well: and for good reason, with this ascent of No Siesta his counter shows twelve routes on the north face! Not far from being a record, no doubt. Roped up with Briton Tom Livingstone, the team climbed No Siesta with two bivouacs. A short and successful film about what remains one of the most famous routes in the Alps.
In the fall of 2021, Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn traveled to the Khumbu region of Rolwaling, Nepal. Faced with Covid restrictions, limited budgets, and last-minute planning, they decided to travel to this relatively accessible region. They opened a new 1,400-meter route called "Massic Attack" on the northeast pillar of Tengkangpoche (6,487 m) in seven days and reached the summit on October 30, 2021, at 12:15 p.m.
On 9 August 2018, Slovenian climbers Luka Stražar and Aleš Česen, along with British climber Tom Livingstone, reached the summit of Latok I (7,145 m) in the Karakorum Mountains of Pakistan. They climbed three-quarters of the way up the coveted "impossible ridge" before deviating from it. The North Ridge of Latok has been/is recognized as one of the last great unclimbed lines in high-altitude mountaineering. This is the second successful ascent of the summit and the first ascent from the north face.
One of Great Britain’s most distinguished climbers, Steve McClure has spent the last few decades scaling cliffs and crags all over the world. In spite of his globetrotting status, he likes nothing more than to tackle challenges on the rock walls of his home country. This is how, after sending Rainman in Malham in 2017, he became one of only a handful of people to climb 9b. In 2019, he finally settled a long overdue score by onsighting Nightmayer, a hard, complex, and committing route!
Tom Livingstone, born in 1990, is an English climber and writer. Originally from the south of England, he now lives in Chamonix. He has a predilection for trad, winter, and alpine climbing: the harder the better! Tom is also a renowned outdoor sports writer, and you can read some of his published articles in his website. His writing has been published in the United States and internationally, in print and online. Sir Chris Bonington said: "Tom Livingstone, one of the world's finest climbers, always uses the purest techniques. » His favorite routes include Cracking Up (IX, 9), The Fourth Dimension (E7 6c), Fun or Fear (ED), The Secret (IX, 9), Rare Lichen (E9 6c), Conan the Librarian (E6 6b), Divine Providence (ED), a winter ascent of the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses, The Great Game on Koyo Zom (ED+), and the North Ridge variation on Latok I (ED+), but he's still eager to do more. A mountaineering instructor and holder of both mountaineering and single-pitch certifications, he is also an IRATA Level 2 rope access technician. Tom also gives lectures and presentations (more information below). In 2019, Tom was awarded the Piolet d'Or for his ascent of Latok 1 with Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar.
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